Take Off and Trek: Building Confidence with Flights and Hikes
Some of the meals I managed in a foreign country.
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Have you ever found yourself on a long journey, far from the comforts of your own kitchen, wondering how you'll manage to eat?
Probably not unless you’ve dysphagia or some kind of swallowing difficulty.
However, that's exactly where I found myself on my last international hiking trip.
Six weeks away from home, and I was filled with apprehension about the food challenges I would face.
The train ride from Bayonne to Saint Jean Pied de Port was a time of reflection for me.
Watching the French countryside whiz by was grounding, yet I couldn't shake the anxiety about eating on the hike and during flights. I had even requested a special halal meal from Qatar Airways, hoping it would be easier and safer to eat. Spoiler alert: it wasn't. The spices they added to make it palatable were not my friends. Lesson learned: sometimes the general meal is just as good, if not better.
Navigating food on long flights is no small feat, especially when dealing with dysphagia. I found myself needing snacks and water that weren't always available on board and once you're on that merry-go-round of special meal requests, it's hard to get off. But I discovered a little trick: booking hot showers and access to food in lounges between flights. It costs a bit more, but the relaxation and hydration are worth it. As is the soup they always have on offer in every airport lounge I have ever been in. Trust me, you don't want to faint on a plane like I did.
Hiking the Camino Frances brought its own set of challenges, particularly social eating. Walking with other pilgrims, forming friendships, and sharing meals is part of the experience. But for me, it was tough. I had to be upfront about needing to eat alone sometimes, to avoid coming across as rude or unsocial. It was a necessary step to manage my food intake and enjoy the journey.
It also meant I was getting calorie dense food in and not just relying on pastries and wine to get me through. I know, who thinks that?
One of the very first legs after crossing the Pyrenees is the route from Roncesvalles to Zubiri, which is about 21 to 22 kilometres. It is a steep descent into Zubiri, and it occurs early in the hike, so you have not fully adjusted to walking. I met a young bloke called Dan who I ended up walking with pretty much the entire sector. Dan as it turned out was wise beyond his years, we discussed trauma at length and he said something to me that made an impression. To get yourself out of the “bunk” (his word) the bible says “walk through the valley of the shadow of death” - as Dan pointed out it doesn’t say “set up home there”. I liked the thinking!
Dan had done some significant religious study and I enjoyed talking with him immensely. If you are reading this Dan, hello!
Zubiri is a charming little place where I stayed in an albergue called Suseia.
The meal there was exceptional. The woman who managed and hosted the albergue, Sara, created an amazing menu for that night’s pilgrim dinner, which we shared as a group. Sara was incredibly kind to me; I confided in her about my situation, and she went out of her way to ensure I had plenty of food.
Sara prepared a cold beetroot soup and cut my salad into tiny pieces to make it easier for me. Salad is like eating glass but I so appreciated the “mum” sentiment.
I enjoyed the dinner by pouring olive oil on fresh-baked baguette bread, which did cause some discomfort, but I managed to get through it with the help of liberal amounts of very good Spanish red wine. The group of people I dined with were lovely, and the food itself was outstanding. There were several soup options, including a beet gazpacho, which I ate with gusto.
There was also an “energetic salad with honey” that Sara prepared, and she kept checking on me to ensure I was okay. For the main course, we had a dish called Relleno Navaresse , which consisted of egg, bacon, saffron, and parsley, resembling a meat patty, pork I suspect. It was delicious, and there was enough tomato sauce to accompany it. The meal included dessert, bread, and wine, making it one of the best meals I had, especially as one of the first on my journey.
Sara, who created that wonderful meal, also prepared breakfast boxes the next morning with our names on them. She had thoughtfully included an extra tub of yogurt, a banana, and a few other items that she knew I would likely be able to manage.
The cold beetroot soup and the Navarrese dish were highlights of the entire Camino Frances, and Sara’s kindness made the experience unforgettable.
This journey taught me the importance of communication and adaptability.
By talking to people about my needs, I not only managed to eat well but also formed deeper connections. Using Google Translate, I had conversations with locals about their food and kitchens, adding a rich layer to my adventure.
I found that I had a different experience compared to others because of my dysphagia and some neck and head issues I was dealing with. I had to engage with people on a different level, discussing food, their kitchens, their restaurants, and their families, as someone was often cooking and preparing the food from scratch. This led to a unique personal experience while walking, as I had to inquire about the food, where it came from, how it was prepared, and what it looked like, all while using Google Translate to communicate my situation. Fun times!
I ended up having conversations with people that I probably wouldn't have had otherwise. I would have simply passed through like every other pilgrim, without truly understanding what was happening behind the scenes.
On numerous occasions, I found myself in their kitchens, using Google Translate to discuss what was going on. This added a wonderful depth to my walk, which I thoroughly enjoyed.
As a result, I gained a different perspective on some of those local areas and discovered people's kindness and their desire to help, ensuring that I had the necessary calorie intake for my journey. This, for me, was an amazing experience.
So, what's the takeaway?
Embrace the challenges, communicate your needs, and don't be afraid to ask for help.
You'll find kindness and support in the most unexpected places, and if you're looking for more tips and stories on navigating life after head and neck cancer, check out my website yvonnemcclaren.com
ps. the pig trotters (above) were the best! So was the red wine to wash it down.
Let’s be honest the red wine everywhere in Spain and Galicia was pretty good.
Eat Well.